A Stroll Around Kandy
When I started to collect jewellery for Parampara, I discovered that many of the pieces are considered 'Kandyan jewellery.' In the past, Kandyan jewellery had been handmade for the royal family. Worn by women and men of royal or noble birth, the jewellery symbolizes wealth, prosperity and grandeur. The agasti necklace, one of the necklaces worn by a bride, is a good representation of Kandyan jewellery with its intricate filigree work and south Indian inspired style that is still distinctively "Kandyan." I want to understand what it means to be Kandyan.
The first time I visited Kandy was a blur. In 2017, I was with my family, and we were doing a mad dash to see Sri Lanka in nine days. We spent hours in a car, got off in prescribed tourist spots, snapped a few photos, and continued to our next destination. I hardly remember Kandy. I know we visited the Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), Kandy's claim to fame. I barely remember it though I know it is a UNESCO world heritage site and considered one of the most sacred places of worship in the Buddhist world. We didn't see the city at all—by the time we were finished at the Temple, it was dark, so we went back to our mediocre hotel up in the hills. The next morning, while eating breakfast on the terrace, we captured the lush valleys surrounding us with our camera phones. Then, we headed to a tea estate, which no one was excited about. After all, we are Taiwanese, and Derek, having lived in Hong Kong, know about teas. Before I moved to Sri Lanka, these are my pitiful associations with Kandy and all things Kandyan.
After we decided to launch Parampara, I started to devour everything I can find about the ancient city. Kandy is a large city on the central plateau, surrounded by mountains, biodiverse rainforest, and tea estates. Throughout Ceylon's colonial history, the Buddhist rulers of Kandy had resisted Portuguese and Dutch colonial expansion. Unlike the coastal kingdoms that succumbed to foreign powers, they remained an independent Ceylonese state. However, the British invaded and overthrew King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha in 1815 and colonized the whole island of Ceylon. The city is known as the last ancient capital, now famous for the Temple of Tooth and the Kandy Lake. It also has many antique shops selling its forgotten treasures.
Derek and I decided to visit some of Kandy to visit its museums and antique shops to learn more about its history and culture. From Colombo, the most scenic route to Kandy is by train. The train is charming because it is ancient, a colonial relic still in service. It's also incredibly slow—it takes about three hours for a 120 km journey. The train huffed and puffed, and my ears popped as we climbed 500 meters above sea level. We watched as the cities receded and turned into small villages and eventually to jungles. Suddenly, the jungle disappeared too, and we were in awe as we found ourselves in viridescent rolling valleys. The train ride is definitely a highlight of the trip.
My favourite antique shop in Kandy is Warnua Antiques, owned by my friend Warnua Jayasinghe. He is also the owner and designer of Samadhi, the tranquil resort in a former tea estate about a 45-minute drive from Kandy. Waruna is incredibly knowledgeable and friendly. I spent hours in his shop, looking through piles and piles of jewellery and other antiques. I picked up many items for Parampara in his shop. If you are ever in Kandy, I suggest you pay Waruna a visit and spend a few nights in Samadhi.
After antiquing, I wanted to visit the National Museum of Kandy for research and revisit the Temple of Tooth. Unfortunately, both sites were closed due to COVID-19. We also wanted to see Helga's Folly, a hotel and home run by the eccentric Helga de Silva Blow Perera. In her heyday, Helga had been a socialite and entertained people from all walks of life at Helga's Folly. It is decked with her artwork, painted directly onto walls and overstuffed with heirlooms she had collected over the years. To our disappointment, it was also closed. However, we did get a better sense of the city this time as we walked around the market area and visited a couple restaurants. We found a bar with a fantastic view of Kandy Lake at sunset.
The next morning, we took a morning stroll around Kandy Lake. It is an artificial lake made by King Sri Vikrama Rajasinha in 1807. Allegedly, the king was so keen to finish it that he funnelled funds for its construction rather than spending it on defence against the British invasion. Perhaps the lake was to blame for the downfall of the last Sinhalese Kingdom?
The morning air was crisp as we walked around the lake. Derek was delighted by the hundreds of bats hanging on many trees along the lake after their nightly excursions. There were many birds in the area, and the highlight was a stunning Kingfisher with its azure tail feathers. We even saw a photoshoot of a couple dressed in traditional Kandyan wedding garments. I stood studying their jewellery, trying to remember every object. Derek tapped me on the shoulder and suggested that I take a photo, which I did.
These days, many Sri Lanka couples like to get their wedding photos taken in Kandyan garments and jewellery. Traditionally, the bride wears specific jewellery borrowed from the extended family passed down through the generations. However, many families no longer have the jewellery—perhaps they have been lost or sold during the civil war. Some established Kandyan families still have their heirlooms, but most modern brides and grooms wear rented garments and imitation jewellery rented for the day. Sadly, there are no stories or memories associated with the jewellery or the garments, the accessories a shallow reminder of the bygone Kandyan royalty.
The appearance of a bygone Kandyan royalty is an apt description of my thoughts after my most recent visit to Kandy. I am not sure if that would have changed had I visited the museum, the Temple or the crazy hotel filled with stories. The city rings empty—the traces of the ancient kingdom is still there, but I couldn't reconstruct what it might have been during my two-day visit to the city.